1030 4-Jaw Chuck: This 3¼″ diameter all-steel chuck has 4 heat-treated reversable steel jaws that can move independently and are tightened with an Allen key, allowing square rectangular, octagonal, or round stock to be centered precisely and held firmly. Its internal ¾″-16 tpi threads match the rotary table adapter. If you’re only buying one chuck to use with the rotary table, this is the one we usually recommend. Note: these chucks are only used on certain lathes and the rotary table; their internal threads don’t match the 22mm–1.5mm threads of the ER spindle.

1050 3-Jaw Scroll Chuck: This 3-jaw chuck can hold round and hexagonal stock. Its internal ¾″-16 tpi threads match the rotary table adapter. Unlike the 4 jaw chuck, the jaws on the 3-jaw chuck all move at the same time, allowing the user to load and unload parts very quickly, using the supplied “Tommy” bars. The soft aluminum jaws on this chuck can be easily machined for greater concentricity to the rotary table’s rotation, or to fixture special parts. Additional soft jaw sets (part 1151) can be purchased if needed. Note: these chucks are only used on certain lathes and the rotary table; their internal threads don’t match the 22mm–1.5mm threads of the ER spindle.

1060 4-Jaw Scroll Chuck: This 4-jaw chuck is good for holding square, round, or octagonal stock, and can quickly load and unload parts. Its internal ¾″-16 tpi threads match the rotary table adapter. It holds more firmly than the 3-jaw scroll chuck and its aluminum soft jaws can also be machined for greater concentricity or for fixturing special parts. Additional soft jaw sets (part 1161) can be purchased if needed. Note: these chucks are only used on certain lathes and the rotary table; their internal threads don’t match the 22mm–1.5mm threads of the ER spindle.

Jacobs Chucks: One of the most useful things the mill can do is to drill holes in specified locations. But most drill bits won’t fit in the supplied collets, which come in a limited range of sizes. To hold them, a Jacobs chuck is used. There are four choices in Jacobs Chucks. Along with each, we include an arbor that allows them to be held in the ⅜″ collet.

End Mills (HSS): End mills are the tools normally used to cut metal with a milling machine. There are lots of variations in these, but this is a good starter set consisting of five two-flute double-ended High Speed Steel cutters with flat ends. Sizes are ¹⁄₁₆″   ³⁄₃₂″   ⅛″   ⁵⁄₃₂″   ³⁄₁₆″.

End Mills (Carbide): Two-flute double-ended carbide end mills. Carbide end mills are stiffer than High Speed Steel, better with hard and abrasive materials, and keep their edges sharp longer. Sizes are ¹⁄₁₆″   ⅛″   ³⁄₁₆″   1⁄4″   3⁄8″.

Slitting Saw: Sometimes it’s necessary to make a cut in a piece of material that’s thinner and deeper than an endmill can be expected to accomplish. For this, a slitting saw is used. We sell a high-speed slitting saw along with an arbor that holds it in the ⅜″ collet.

Fly Cutter: A piece of material may not be flat on top, or it might be desirable to mill the surface down more rapidly than can be done with end mills. For this, a fly cutter is used. It uses a ¼″ square-section cutter to sweep over the material, removing a wide swath at a time.

Spindle Wrenches: The ER collet system uses two opposing nuts that tighten the tapered and slitted collet into a tapered recess in the spindle, which compresses it around the tool. For this, two one-inch spindle wrenches are required. We sell this as a set of two wrenches.

Fixture Plate: While a vise is good for holding small parts, sometimes it’s necessary to attach larger ones to the mill bed for machining operations. With this fixture plate, and some 10-32 screws and washers, this is easy to do. This fixture plate is 4″ × 14″ × ⅝″ with holes on 1″ centers, and attaches to the bed of any Taig mill with 9 screws and T-nuts.

Edge Finder: When machining parts precisely, it’s helpful to know exactly where the edge of the workpiece is. Using this ¼″ shank edge finder, you can do that without damaging your tool or your part. Just touch off the side of the edge finder to the edge of your workpiece, subtract the .1″ radius of the tip, and you’ve got it.

Boring Bar Head and Bars: Drilling holes larger than about ⅜″ can require expensive tooling and bog down the mill’s spindle. This boring bar holder, which comes with long and short boring bars, makes this possible for holes up to up to 1½″ diameter. Drill a ⅜″ pilot hole, then insert this tool into the ⅜″ collet and extend the bar incrementally until the hole is the desired size.